Songkran – Ban Nong Pai

Written about a lot would definitely be an understatement when it comes to the Thai festival, Songkran. It’s celebrated throughout the land and can vary in number of days depending on city or province. In the case of Ban Nong Pai – Isan Province, Songkran officially lasts three days.

Anyone that has been to one of the tourist centers during Songkran will tell you that it is one big water fight. In the tourist centers it is. The experience to be had in one of the villages of say Kalasin is definitely different and much more of a cultural awakening as well.

Day one I was awakened with a, “Johno come and have a look and bring your camera”. I should mention that I have had the privilege of attending one of the tourist centre Songkran festivals and had suitably equipped my self for the occasion. I had my underwater housing for my camera with me.

Just up the street from our house seats had been put out and the local elders had been requested to take a seat. The younger set then go past one by one and pour a bit of water on each of the elders and wishing them good luck as they go. Water is laced with some scent at times or small flowers can accompany the small sprinkle of water. Of course though with the official showing of respect out of the way what is one to do with the surplus water? Everyone else cops a serve of course.

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The morning proceeds from there with a visit to the local temple. Blessings are received and donations are made. The jury is still out on which one of these matters most to the locals. Preparations are then made for the upcoming street parade. The latter probably having originated from a time when Songkran was all about paying homage to Budha and as a means of strengthening community spirit. The street parade I witnessed was that with just an added touch more.

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The lack of town water did nothing to dampen the spirit, (pardon the pun) it was on for young and old. Monks led the parade, the locals followed and bringing up the rear was a pickup loaded to the brim with sound reinforcement equipment. The latter blaring out the local Isan hit of the moment. At about 119 decibels I might add.

As the parade makes it’s way through the village streets water is dispersed in every way possible. Those not taking part in the parade await the arrival of same outside their abode. There they have tubs of water on hand and at times the water may contain ice as well. Given the heat of the day the water can be quite refreshing. However, laden with ice the water will still have a chilling effect.

What was great to watch was the fact that young and old take part. One particular boy had taken a liking to the farang taking part and decided to make it his mission to keep me suitably wet for the duration of the parade. He was dubbed bucket boy.

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It should be mentioned at this time that there is the odd occasion during the parade where alcohol is consumed. I noticed bottles of whiskey and soda being poured into water buckets filled with ice and then being handed around freely. I guess one could say it brings about a community spirit. (Sorry)

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As a sidebar I would like to add that as a farang, my taking part in the parade was met with only welcoming gestures. After all, they’re all throwing water around. How hard can it be? However, I did get the opportunity to get my own back at times as well.

To be continued…….

Shopping

This morning would have us leave the peaceful setting of Lat Sawai around 07:00. Off to Bangkok proper. Bew had to get to work by eight and lucky for us it was a public holiday. The roads were reasonably clear and there was not a lot of need for Nuch’s back seat driving.

Bew dropped us at Victory Circle and we caught a cab to the hotel from there. I may have mentioned that there are a lot of Isan people working in Bangkok and our taxi driver was one of them. Well, after a ten minute cab ride I almost felt bad leaving him in the cab. Nuch just talked, talked, talked, talked, talked. There’s only one other person I know that actually invited the cabby to dinner. (That’s definitely another story)

Managing to pry Nuch out of the cab we settled into our hotel room.

Not long thereafter Nuch had determined that we should go shopping. So off we went to the local BTS Skytrain station. This elevated rail service is excellent by the way. As long as your destination is somewhere along the rail route I can highly recommend it. We had to travel to Siam station and then a quick jaunt along the skywalk.

Having studied a bit of Thai I can definitely say that the locals have a habit of (the only way to describe it) bastardizing their language. The letter R becomes L and vice versa. Some of the words in their language come from the western world. Elevator in Thai is Lift. Salad becomes Salaat and Cream is Cream. Some words don’t scrape through as cleanly as in TV. There is no “V” in the Thai language so TV become T Wee. As can be seen it doesn’t take long to get an understanding of how confusing it can get when a local, without a mastery of English and a degree in bastardized Thai translated into English tries to explain and or ask for the location of a department store.

So (he who hates shopping more than watching The Brady Bunch and skewering his cheeks with kebab skewers) went along for another joy filled afternoon of “shopping”. The shopping centre of choice was Central World. It’s the one with the metal detector at the front entrance. Although, we chose to go through the Skywalk entrance and thereby negating the afore mentioned metal detector. I love it. Other shopping centers have similar security protocols in place all as a result of some terrorist acts a few years back. I felt completely safe as a result.

Now comes the fun part. My beloved wanted to go to the department store (most assuredly located within the shopping complex) and failed to instantly determine where it may be located. She also has a habit of not immediately availing herself of local resources. So I asked her what the name of the department sore (sorry, store) might be and she replied, “Cen”. That’s how it sounded in my ears and with a quick double-take I concluded that it would either be Sen as in send or Cen as in central.

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We ascended from floor to floor and with every floor circumnavigated it soon became apparent that my wife (someone who keeps reminding me she lived in Bangkok some twenty years) had no idea where the elusive “Cen” may be located.

I suggested on more than one occasion that she ask for directions. The reply, still ringing my ears was, “Just a moment darling”. On the sixth floor she capitulated and asked one of the “security” personnel as to the whereabouts of “Cen”. Down we went. Six floors and a lot of walking later we found ourselves back in the Skywalk. Yes, back where we started. We meandered along and soon found ourselves back at the entrance (the one without the metal detector) and in we went again. This, we of course did a third time when finally my wife was forced to once again ask for directions. The tedium of this journey was broken up with some humor when I realized she had just asked the same guy for the same directions.

My wife’s perseverance was to be rewarded when finally we turned a corner and there, like an oasis in a desert, was the store she had been looking for. Was it Cen? No. Was it Sen? No.

It was Zen. What an apt name…..