And more Songkran

The destination of the day’s street parade was the local temple (Wat) and this was to be the venue for the evenings festivities as well.

When we arrived that evening we came upon a circular arrangement of chairs in front of a stage. By now I have concluded that the locals could all definitely use a hearing test as the parade’s amplification gear had been supplemented with even more gear. They obviously think that “stereo” means two of everything. The music had needless to say, an overwhelming presence.

The theme for the evening was some of community dance affair. The idea being that a financial contributor facilitates the ability for others to dance. The money is of course all put to good use I’m sure. Maybe the proceeds of this evenings event were going to be utilized to bolster the ever waining water supply.

Your’s truly was duped into (I mean selected for) making the first major contribution. It was an all in extravaganza with anyone and everyone displaying their cultural dance heritage and prowess. Others were on stage banging and clanging away (almost in time) along with the music.

Of course I was not going to get off as lightly as only making a donation. No, no, and after a lot of coaxing and a shot of VSOP offered up by local wearing a pith helmet, I entered the circle. The music began to play after I was introduced in English by the local teacher (why English when no one would be able to understand it) and before I knew it I was surrounded by Thai women. Not one of them under sixty five I might add. It was about now that all of those Discovery Channel shows started playing in my head. You know, those that deal with cultural courting rituals of sorts? It was then that I remembered that it’s OK for Thai men to be cradle snatchers and it’s frowned upon for Thai women to be cougars. Phew…..

Songkran Continued

There is another tradition during the festive days of Songkran that only becomes apparent when you know what you’re looking for. It’s a game called Hi-Lo.

Hi-Lo is a dice game comprising a mat with numbers on it and a small bowl that holds three dice. A bamboo cover is placed over the bowl to conceal the dice. There are usually two people that run the game, a dice man and a banker. The dice man gives the bowl a shake and the participants then place bets according to the possible combinations indicated on the mat. Once all bets have been placed the bamboo cover is removed to reveal the dice. The banker then takes care of distributing the winnings accordingly.

It should be pointed out that gambling is illegal throughout Thailand and the locals here take that very seriously. They therefor ensure the police won’t find them when the game is being played.

As much as it would appear that each of the players has a fist full of cash they mostly only bet with twenty baht notes. In Aussie terms that’s about sixty cents.

Even though the stakes don’t appear to be very high everyone is very dedicated to the game. Starting mid morning and usually finishing well after midnight.

Having been a spectator for a couple of hours, and of course financing my wife’s want to play, it soon became apparent who makes most of the money. The facilitators of the game are the most gracious of hosts and will buy in food of all sorts and even handout the odd bit of Loa Whiskey to the guys. This is of course ensures that the participants (suckers) don’t develop a desire to go home. It should be noted though that no other alcohol is provided or consumed.

The first night my wife was up by eight hundred baht. ($25) This was very quickly given back on the following night and she ended up being in debt to me to tune of six hundred baht.

For the locals it is just bit of fun and they can get a small amount of cash as well. There were no police interventions and for all I know there might have been a local cop amongst the players.

Songkran – Ban Nong Pai

Written about a lot would definitely be an understatement when it comes to the Thai festival, Songkran. It’s celebrated throughout the land and can vary in number of days depending on city or province. In the case of Ban Nong Pai – Isan Province, Songkran officially lasts three days.

Anyone that has been to one of the tourist centers during Songkran will tell you that it is one big water fight. In the tourist centers it is. The experience to be had in one of the villages of say Kalasin is definitely different and much more of a cultural awakening as well.

Day one I was awakened with a, “Johno come and have a look and bring your camera”. I should mention that I have had the privilege of attending one of the tourist centre Songkran festivals and had suitably equipped my self for the occasion. I had my underwater housing for my camera with me.

Just up the street from our house seats had been put out and the local elders had been requested to take a seat. The younger set then go past one by one and pour a bit of water on each of the elders and wishing them good luck as they go. Water is laced with some scent at times or small flowers can accompany the small sprinkle of water. Of course though with the official showing of respect out of the way what is one to do with the surplus water? Everyone else cops a serve of course.

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The morning proceeds from there with a visit to the local temple. Blessings are received and donations are made. The jury is still out on which one of these matters most to the locals. Preparations are then made for the upcoming street parade. The latter probably having originated from a time when Songkran was all about paying homage to Budha and as a means of strengthening community spirit. The street parade I witnessed was that with just an added touch more.

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The lack of town water did nothing to dampen the spirit, (pardon the pun) it was on for young and old. Monks led the parade, the locals followed and bringing up the rear was a pickup loaded to the brim with sound reinforcement equipment. The latter blaring out the local Isan hit of the moment. At about 119 decibels I might add.

As the parade makes it’s way through the village streets water is dispersed in every way possible. Those not taking part in the parade await the arrival of same outside their abode. There they have tubs of water on hand and at times the water may contain ice as well. Given the heat of the day the water can be quite refreshing. However, laden with ice the water will still have a chilling effect.

What was great to watch was the fact that young and old take part. One particular boy had taken a liking to the farang taking part and decided to make it his mission to keep me suitably wet for the duration of the parade. He was dubbed bucket boy.

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It should be mentioned at this time that there is the odd occasion during the parade where alcohol is consumed. I noticed bottles of whiskey and soda being poured into water buckets filled with ice and then being handed around freely. I guess one could say it brings about a community spirit. (Sorry)

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As a sidebar I would like to add that as a farang, my taking part in the parade was met with only welcoming gestures. After all, they’re all throwing water around. How hard can it be? However, I did get the opportunity to get my own back at times as well.

To be continued…….

Shopping

This morning would have us leave the peaceful setting of Lat Sawai around 07:00. Off to Bangkok proper. Bew had to get to work by eight and lucky for us it was a public holiday. The roads were reasonably clear and there was not a lot of need for Nuch’s back seat driving.

Bew dropped us at Victory Circle and we caught a cab to the hotel from there. I may have mentioned that there are a lot of Isan people working in Bangkok and our taxi driver was one of them. Well, after a ten minute cab ride I almost felt bad leaving him in the cab. Nuch just talked, talked, talked, talked, talked. There’s only one other person I know that actually invited the cabby to dinner. (That’s definitely another story)

Managing to pry Nuch out of the cab we settled into our hotel room.

Not long thereafter Nuch had determined that we should go shopping. So off we went to the local BTS Skytrain station. This elevated rail service is excellent by the way. As long as your destination is somewhere along the rail route I can highly recommend it. We had to travel to Siam station and then a quick jaunt along the skywalk.

Having studied a bit of Thai I can definitely say that the locals have a habit of (the only way to describe it) bastardizing their language. The letter R becomes L and vice versa. Some of the words in their language come from the western world. Elevator in Thai is Lift. Salad becomes Salaat and Cream is Cream. Some words don’t scrape through as cleanly as in TV. There is no “V” in the Thai language so TV become T Wee. As can be seen it doesn’t take long to get an understanding of how confusing it can get when a local, without a mastery of English and a degree in bastardized Thai translated into English tries to explain and or ask for the location of a department store.

So (he who hates shopping more than watching The Brady Bunch and skewering his cheeks with kebab skewers) went along for another joy filled afternoon of “shopping”. The shopping centre of choice was Central World. It’s the one with the metal detector at the front entrance. Although, we chose to go through the Skywalk entrance and thereby negating the afore mentioned metal detector. I love it. Other shopping centers have similar security protocols in place all as a result of some terrorist acts a few years back. I felt completely safe as a result.

Now comes the fun part. My beloved wanted to go to the department store (most assuredly located within the shopping complex) and failed to instantly determine where it may be located. She also has a habit of not immediately availing herself of local resources. So I asked her what the name of the department sore (sorry, store) might be and she replied, “Cen”. That’s how it sounded in my ears and with a quick double-take I concluded that it would either be Sen as in send or Cen as in central.

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We ascended from floor to floor and with every floor circumnavigated it soon became apparent that my wife (someone who keeps reminding me she lived in Bangkok some twenty years) had no idea where the elusive “Cen” may be located.

I suggested on more than one occasion that she ask for directions. The reply, still ringing my ears was, “Just a moment darling”. On the sixth floor she capitulated and asked one of the “security” personnel as to the whereabouts of “Cen”. Down we went. Six floors and a lot of walking later we found ourselves back in the Skywalk. Yes, back where we started. We meandered along and soon found ourselves back at the entrance (the one without the metal detector) and in we went again. This, we of course did a third time when finally my wife was forced to once again ask for directions. The tedium of this journey was broken up with some humor when I realized she had just asked the same guy for the same directions.

My wife’s perseverance was to be rewarded when finally we turned a corner and there, like an oasis in a desert, was the store she had been looking for. Was it Cen? No. Was it Sen? No.

It was Zen. What an apt name…..

Bangkok Motor Show

This morning got off to an early start. I can highly recommend the River Kwai Hotel. Very good and affordable. Buffet breakfast out of the way and off we went in search of the “Death Railway Museum”.

Actually this particular museum is not far from the bridge. There’s an old steam locomotive as one comes in with an old Mercedes Benz perched on top of it. The significance of it must have been compelling for someone and it certainly got a “what the” from me. I failed to see what the Merc had to do with the Burma railway though.

Having seen the bits and pieces that were gathered up after the railway project we were off once again.

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Next stop was a movie set of sorts used for a five part Thai epic. Not quite Universal Studios and interesting just the same. Tourists can opt to be ferried around by way of ox and cart. Some of the set elements are now up for sale and one lucky purchaser can pick up a teak house for a cool 15 million baht.

As we were making our way back to Bangkok Bew mentioned we could drop in to the Bangkok Motor Show. It would appear that she has a hankering to purchase a new car. I should mention that you don’t see too many vehicles on the roads older than the term of the loan used to procure them. The latter being able to be stretched to eight years. Once the loan is out of the way it’s time for a new car.
The motor-show was definitely a site to behold. The venue would put the Melbourne Exhibition centre to shame. Lovingly referred to by Melbournians as “Jeff’s Shed” and compared to the Bangkok Venue it is a very apt name.

The way the Thais present the vehicles is also quite an eye opener. Women are to be seen with just about every vehicle on display and will definitely ensure you focus on the new Ford Focus.

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River Kwai

Today we got up early and left to go for breakfast. The Thais have sensational eateries that we as farangs don’t really frequent as they are in areas that are off the beaten tourist track. Apart from the food being sensational it is also cheap. Today we had bowls of soup, rice and more, shared between three for seven dollars. Doesn’t get better than that.

Then it was off to Kanchanaburi, the location of the bridge over the river Kwai. Well, there are actually quite a few bridges over it. This one is a dedicated rail bridge and is purported to be in the same spot as the bridge we all know from WWII. Apparently the original got blown up. The Japanese then made amends after the war.

These days said bridge sees hundreds of people traipsing all over it each and every day. Throw in a train for good measure and now all that’s missing is the whistling of the Colonel Bogey March.

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We also went to the Erawan Falls. Anyone who’s ever seen an actual waterfall will not miss out not seeing these falls. The park though, is very well maintained. The latter being facilitated by the fact that farangs pay three times the gate rate than the locals. It was here that we decided to stock up on fried chicken and papaya salad (som thum) and meander down to the falls.

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Great day had by all and I only had to pay for fuel and food and lodgings. Not a bad deal really….

Bangkok Airport

The flight from Melbourne to Bangkok was as can be expected from any nine hour flight.

Bought some noise canceling headphones and they worked as expected. The red LED that indicates the headphones are on, worked within parameters. Should have stuck with the Apple earbuds I bought last year.

I heard a great quote once that goes along the lines of, “I don’t mind crowds, it’s the individual’s in them I don’t like.” Well, I’ve got to say, I’m not one to prematurely criticize an Architects dream of immortalizing themselves by way of their designs and BKK airport must therefor rate a mention. I’ve seen cattle yards in Australia that work more efficiently. A lot could also be learned by visiting some our shearing sheds in the outback. Imagine trying to stuff the shorn sheep back from whence it came.

Anyway our only issue was with my beloved needing to procure a local sim card for her phone. You’d think you’d be able to get a signal in one the worlds bigger cattle yards. Sorry, I meant airport. I’m still an apprentice when it comes to dealing with an angry Thai woman. I need a few more years to graduate I think.

Our niece Bew picked us up, from the Taxi ranks I might add. Uneventful trip back to her place. The first 30 minutes of the trip were very uneventful. It was interesting to see how high the floods had come. Bew was quite lucky living in a double story as it enabled her to shift most of her furniture upstairs. Not everyone was as fortunate. Sources say the same thing is going to happen again this year. Repairs will have to wait.

Today we’ll be off to Kanchanaburi, or better known as the River Kwai.

Off on Friday – Good Friday for some.

Well, déjà vu would be the right expression relative to how I’m feeling now. Nuch has her bags packed. Although I’m betting not securely. There will be an ambit claim on any space I have to spare I’m sure.

This year’s trip will have us revisiting the much loved Songkran festival. Our stray family members will make their way from Bangkok once again as they do every year. I am prepared. I have my waterproof housing for my camera and ready for the aquatic onslaught.

First we will be spending some days in Bangkok and environs. My wife has been out of shopping circulation and will need to catch up I’m sure. I will of course remain house bound for the duration until the 11th, when we take off for Khon Kaen. We will endeavor to take in some sights as well. Though I don’t like my chances.

Khon Kaen will be a reawakening of the primal instinct within me as we (I) go through many hours with no sleep. Sleeping on the floor with only a reed mat to cushion the experience. Dogs howling, cows flatulating, and cocks crowing. Hmmmmm, why do I keep coming back.

Love it,….. Stay tuned.

The Apple didn’t fall far from the tree.

It would be a year ago that I delved into the world of Apple for the first time with my then not too highly thought of iPad. I remember going on about this that and the other. Hmmm, no USB ports etc. Well, a year on and it’s a totally different story.

Soon after the iPad had become the much needed commodity I just couldn’t do without, the Nokia E71 was soon supplanted with an iPone.

Now to just rewind a bit. I started working with the humble PC back in 1987. Lotus 123 was the program of choice and not soon there after I was working with MS Excel 1d. Back in those days windows had winders. The PC would boot up to a C prompt in less than a minute or so. Hmmm what ever happened to that? Not to digress too much, one of my latest forays into the PC world was by way of an Acer Aspire net book. Upgraded to 2gb of ram no less.

Imagine playing a 45rpm vinyl record at 33 and a third and you soon get the point. There’s not a lot of doing when it comes to those sorts of machines except for one thing, waiting. When it does eventually boot, Microsoft decides that the machine hasn’t quite been stuffed to the gills yet and implores you to install the much needed 23 critical updates. Restart required, and then when it finally boots up again Adobe will insist that you must have the latest version of their pdf reader or Flash. Around this time the “must have anti virus program” will decide it’s about time for a scan. Needless to say that if one was to liken the PC to a toaster, one would simply throw it out and buy a new one. So that’s exactly what I did,……

I bought a Mac.

The End

Home sweet home

So last night we arrived back home. Arrived 9:30 pm. Our Niece picked us up from the airport. Getting out of the airport car park was actually more arduous then flying here. You see every one tries to get a parking spot as close to the terminal as possible. This need is brought about by the fact that the locals don’t like walking. There were cars everywhere, double and triple parked. We then went down two levels only to find that level virtually deserted. Amazing.

Then there was of course a lovely jaunt along the expressway, which was almost the same as being stuck in the car park. One hour later we arrived at our destination. So what to do now? Eat of course. Then off to bed.

The latter being nothing like what is in store for us tonight. Our Niece lives in a lovely middle class enclave with all the mod cons us westerners have come to expect in life. Soft bed, proper toilet and bathroom with shower and air-conditioning. Sensational. However, it only serves to highlight the distinct difference we’ll be faced with tonight in Khon Kaen.

Hmmmm…..